What Can Go Wrong...the Dangers

"Slaughtering an animal is an inherently messy process," Tom Besser, a professor at the Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine, observes. That goes double, or triple, when the animal is a 1,150 pound, manure-coated behemth fresh off the feedlot. Here's how beef gets from the ranch to your kitchen. We've highlighted junctures where problems can crop-up.

RANCH
After calves are weaned, they munch grass in a pasture. When they weigh about 500 pounds, some are sent to a feedlot. Others are kept for "backgrounding"---getting accustomed to their future corn-based meal plan---until they weigh 650 or 700 pounds.
WHAT CAN GO WRONG
E. coli O157:H7 is present in an estimated two-thirds of breeding herds. Though potentially deadly to humans, the germ doesn't sicken cattle, so it's not possible to cull animals that carry it, and it spreads so fast from animal to animal that testing would be futile.

FEEDLOT
Cattle from many ranches converge at feedlots, where they consume a corn-based diet designed to make them gain weight fast, usually with help from hormones and antibiotics. In three to six months, they put on 400 to 500 pounds. Crammed in pens, they step in manure and drink from common water troughs.
WHAT CAN GO WRONG
E.coli O157:H7 is present in about 90 percent of feedlots. The germ is also in feed bunks and water troughs because cattle repeatedly bring cud from stomach to mouth for more chewing.

SLAUGHTER
When cattle reach 1,100 pounds or so, they're slaughtered, usually in plants that process more than 1,000 animals a day. Smaller plants tend to kill culled dairy cattle, whose meat is especially likely to end up as ground beef. USDA inspectors check live animals and remove any that look ill or infected. After an animal is killed, its hide and internal organs are removed, and its carcass is sawed in half. USDA inspectors check it again, making sure any soiled spots and visible flaws are cut away. The carcass is cleaned. In large plants, that usually includes "steam pasteurization," during which sides of beef are exposed to pressurized steam. Some plants also spray the carcass with a weak acid solution, which retards bacterial growth. Then the sides are chilled for a day or two, and the USDA conducts random tests for Salmonella.
WHAT CAN GO WRONG
Many cattle arrive at the slaughterhouse with E.coli O157:H7 on their hides. In the process of dehiding, germs can contaminate the underlying fat and muscle, which are normally sterile. The bacteria can also become airborne, and waft onto previously clean carcasses. About 1 percent of the time, studies suggest, a slip of the knife during evisceration perforates the bowel, spilling bacteria.

FABRICATION
This occurs at the slaughtering plant or elsewhere. The sides are disassembled into the four primal cuts (round, loin, rib, and chuck), which may be segmented further or sent to stores. Leftover bits of meat go into giant stainless-steel "combo bins" or into boxes for shipment elsewhere. At the end of each workday, a crew power-washes the fabrication area with hot water and sanitizers.

WHAT CAN GO WRONG
If previous steps haven't rid carcasses of harmful bacteria, it's too late now. And with the meat constantly being handled, opportunities for cross-contamination abound. The cleanup may miss bits of germladen meat lodged in machinery. If meat from a contaminated carcass gets into a combo bin, it can taint the other meat in there. Government scientists estimate that between 23 percent and 43 percent of bins contain at least one E.coli O157:H7 organism.

GRINDING
Meat is ground at the slaughterhouse; at grinding plants, where bins can be mixed to produce ground beef with a specified fat content; or at stores, which grind trimmings with coarsely ground meat received from processing plants. The USDA randomly tests for E.coli O157:H7 and Salmonella in meat at grinding plants and stores.
WHAT CAN GO WRONG
Mixing dirty meat with clean will contaminate a whole batch. If grinders aren't sanitized between loads, contamination can carry over to the next batch. If meat gets warmer than about 40 degrees for extended periods, bacteria can multiply rapidly. Plant workers can cross-contaminate meat if they aren't careful to wash hands, surfaces, and knives.

SELLING
Stores usually package ground beef on the premises, to meet their customers' needs, but increasingly this step involves simply setting case-ready packages in the meat case.
WHAT CAN GO WRONG
Cross-contamination opportunities abound, and lax temperature control can allow germs to grow.

PREPARING
Control passes to the customer.
WHAT CAN GO WRONG
Meat can quickly become too warm in the shopping cart or car: A 1999 study by Audits International, a quality-control consulting firm, found that the temperature of refrigerated products rose an average of 9 degrees between store and home. As ground beef is being prepared, its juices can contaminate other foods via countertops, cutting boards, utensils, or unwashed hands. Patties can be undercooked, allowing germs to survive and multiply. A 1998 survey found that although more consumers were thoroughly cooking ground beef, 16 percent still served it rare or medium-rare. For help in making sure the meat you cook is safe to eat, see the Recommendations Page.